कम्बोडिया और अंगकोर : मेरा प्रवास


Cambodia and Angkor

kambodiya aur angakor : mera pravaas

soshalijm kitana khoonee ho sakata hai ? poonjeevaad kitana khoonee ho sakata hai ? kisee desh ke itihaas ka ek aisa kaalakhand jab vibhinn vichaaradhaaraon ke ek ke baad ek impleementeshan ne 30 laakh (kul aabaadee ka 21%) log maar die . kuchh aankadon par nazar daalen. kambodiya ko phrench upaniveshavaad se 1953 mein aajaadee milee. raajasatta vaapas kambodiya ke raajakumaar sinhanook ke haath mein gayee.

bhayankar gareebee mein jee rahe janata ke raaja ka sabase priy kaary tha sinema banaana ! khud hee likhate, khud hee daayarekt karate , khud hee abhinay karate aur khud hee dekhate ! raajasatta ko khatara hua kamyunijm se aur heero kee tarah poonjeevaadee aaya bachaane. san 1964 se 1973 tak 9 saal mein 27 laakh tan bam amerika ne kambodiya par girae (dviteey vishv yuddh mein girae kul bam se jyaada !). janata kee haalat ka andaaza lagaiye !

phir aaye neharoovaad se prabhaavit soshalijm aur saamaajik nyaay ke heero, mittee putr, che guera aur phidel kaastro ke pakshadhar pol pot aur unakee paartee “khamer rooj” (laal kamboj). raaja ko apadasth karake mahaan samaajavaadee shaashan kee sthaapana huee. janata khush ! phir aaya unaka tugalakee pharamaan ! samaajavaad mein maarksavaad ghus gaya. varnasankar jaayataam. “khamer rooj” ne burjua varg ko naya naam diya “nae log”. shahar mein rahane vaale, padhe likhe gareeb log bane “nae log”. gaanv mein rahane vaale gareeb log bane “asalee log”.

raaton-raat shahar ko khaalee kar gaanv mein basane ka aadesh diya gaya. parivaar tod die gae. baink rupaye-paise jala die gae. skool-kaalej, hospital, nyaayalay sab band. ye sab poonjeevaad kee pahachaan hai. satayug kee khoj mein sabako gaanv bhej diya gaya. sabako saath khaana khaane ka aadesh. sabako khetee karane ka aadesh. beemaaron ko puraane tareekon se ilaaj karane ka aadesh. varg viheen, jaati viheen saamaajik nyaay se paripoorn yootopiyan sosaitee ka nirmaan hua. na to koee ameer tha na koee gareeb, na koee saakshar tha na koee nirakshar. saare shaharee buddhijeevee chaaval ke kheton mein khetee seekhate seekhate kaal kavalit ho gae. are haan dharm to bhool hee gaya. bauddh , eesaee aur islaam sabake saath ek jaisa vyavahaar hua. sabake pujaariyon ko maar diya gaya ! 25000 bauddh bhikshu nirvaan ko praapt hue. samaajavaad mein dharm ka kya kaam ! satayug hai bhaee !

30 laakh logon ke marane ke baad (isamen aadhe ko maara gaya aur baakee asamay mar gae ) , asal saamaajik nyaay sthaapit hone ke baad bhee kambodiya barbaad raha, janata naakhush rahee . san 1996 mein aakhirakaar khamer rooj se poornatah mukti milee. mainne svabhaavatah bahut samajhane kee koshish kee abhee kambodiya mein kis prakaar kee shaashan vyavastha hai. raajatantr hai, prajaatantr hai , kya hai. mujhe samajh nahin aaya kee kya hai. shaayad jeenayoo se raajaneeti vigyaan mein doktaret karane ke baad samajh paoon ! par itana to tay hai kee kambodiya ke logon ka vikaas ho raha hai kee nahin itana samajhane ke lie shaayad maanavashaastr mein digree kee jarurat nahin hai. kambodiya mein ab amerikee daalar chalata hai. poonjeevaad se logon ke jeevanastar mein sudhaar aaya hai jo mukhyatah shaharon tak seemit hai. kuchh khaas log altra rich bhee ho gae hain. yahee to poonjeevaad kee khoobee hai !

main jab seeyaam reep havaee adde par utara to subah ke saat baje the. neend mein oonghate imeegreshan aadhikaariyon ko dekhakar thodee tenshan to huee par kam hee log utare the to jyaada asuvidha nahin huee. bhaarateeyon ko vahaan “veesa on araival” milata hai. abhee tak bees ke kareeb jitane bhee deshon mein gaya hoon uname pahalee baar hee haath se likhakar diya gaya veesa mila ! tees daalar mein tees din ka veesa. siyaam reep mein saalaana 20 laakh log aate hain angakor vat mandir dekhane. paryatakon ke rukane, khaane aur ghoomane ka bahut hee badhiya intezaam hai. saadhaaran saaf-suthare bred end brekaphaast vaale loj se lekar ati vilaasitaapoorn bahul sitaara hotalon tak kee bahaar hai. baajaar ka kuchh hissa kaaphee aadhunik hai aur baakee hissa chhote shaharee baajaar kee tarah. shaharee yaataayaat ka mukhy saadhan motarasaikil mein trelar jodakar banaaya gaya tukatuk hai. door daraaj ke gaanv se aaye gareeb log karza lekar tukatuk khareedate hain aur chalaate hain. saath se sattar hazaar tak ka kharcha padata hai. mere tukatuk draivar ka naam sukhee tha. bahut hee shisht aur eemaanadaar insaan. mainne bahut saare blogs aur lekh dekhe hain jinamen vikasit deshon ke log likhate hain kee kaise phalaane tukatuk draivar ne paanch daalar jyaada le liya aur thag liya. pata nahin kaun sa kuber ka khajaana chala gaya paanch dolar mein! eshiya-paisiphik kshetr mein aadatavash main hamesha daam tay karake hee baithana pasand karata hoon. ek tukatuk par chaar se paanch log aaraam se baith sakate hain. shahar ka mausam bilakul pune kee tarah laga. subah-shaam thandh aur dopahar halakee garmee. ghoomane ke lihaaz se badhiya mausam. naashte ke baad ham log angakor vat mandir kee taraph gae jo siyaam reep shahar se aath kilomeetar door ghane pedon ke beech “angakor archeolojeekal paark” mein avasthit hai.

ab bahut logon ke pet mein kitana bhee dard ho par sachchaee yahee hai kee angakor vat ek hindoo mandir hai. isake deevaalon par ukere chitron ko main bahut koshish karake bhee raamaayan ya mahaabhaarat ke nahin hain aisa siddh nahin kar paaya. phraans aur amerikee vidvaanon ke shodh se bhee yahee pramaanit hua hai. ab bhaarateey puraataatvik sansathaan (a s i) isapar shodh kar rahee hai. ab dekhane vaalee baat hai kee badalate sarakaaron ke saath mandir ka itihaas kaise badalata hai. apane yahaan se maanavavigyaaniyon aur itihaas shodhakon ko bhee vahaan bhejana chaahie taaki vo siddh kar paen kee ye dravido ne banaaye ya aaryon ne ! jaanakaaree ke lie bata doon kee kambojon ko is baat se malaal nahin hota kee unaka itihaas hindoo tha aur vartamaan bauddh hai. yahaan ka raajy dharm bhee bauddh hee hai. mere ek mitr bata rahe the kee angakor vat ka rishta ang pradesh se hai. ab yah to shodh ka vishay hai par kuchh jaanakaariyaan milee jo nimnalikhit hain :

“angakor kee sthaapana ka shrey jayavarman dviteey (802-854 ee.) ko diya jaata hai. usane angakor vansh kee neenv daalee aur kamboj ko jaava kee adheenata se mukt kiya. usane sambhavat: bhaarat se hiranyadaas naamak braahman ko bulavaakar apane raajy kee suraksha ke lie taantrik kriyaen karavaeen. is vidvaan braahman ne devaraaj naamak sampradaay kee sthaapana kee jo sheeghr hee kamboj ka raajadharm ban gaya. jayavarman ne apanee raajadhaanee kramash: kutee, hariharaalay aur amarendrapur naamak nagaron mein banaee jisase spasht hai ki vartamaan kambodiya ka praay: samast kshetr usake adheen tha aur raajy kee shakti ka kendr dheere-dheere poorv se pashchim kee or badhata hua antat: angkor ke pradesh mein sthaapit ho gaya tha. “

Cambodia and Angkor2

“jayavarman dviteey ko apane samay mein kambujaraajendr aur usakee maharaanee ko kambujaraajalakshmee naam se abhihit kiya jaata tha. isee samay se kambodiya ke praacheen naam kambuj ya kamboj ka videshee lekhakon ne bhee prayog karana praarambh kar diya tha. jayavarman dviteey ke pashchaat bhee kamboj ke saamraajy kee nirantar unnati aur vrddhi hotee gaee aur kuchh hee samay ke baad samast indocheen praayadveep mein kamboj saamraajy ka vistaar ho gaya. mahaaraaj indravarman ne anek mandiron aur tadaagon ka nirmaan karavaaya. yashovarman (889-908 ee.) hindoo shaastron aur sanskrt kaavyon ka gyaata tha aur usane anek vidvaanon ko raajashray diya. usake samay ke anek sundar sanskrt abhilekh praapy hain. is kaal mein hindoo dharm, saahity aur kaal kee abhootapoorv pragati huee. yashovarman ne kambupuree ya yashodharapur naam kee naee raajadhaanee basaee. dharm aur sanskrti ka vishaal kendr angkor thom bhee isee nagaree kee shobha badhaata tha. angkor sanskrti ka svarnakaal isee samay se hee praanrabh hota hai. 944 ee. mein kamboj ka raaja raajendravarman tha jisake samay ke kaee brhad abhilekh sundar sanskrt kaavyashailee mein likhe milate hain. 1001 ee. tak ka samay kamboj ke itihaas mein mahatvapoorn hai kyonki is kaal mein kamboj kee seemaen cheen ke dakshinee bhaag chhootee theen, laos usake antargat tha aur usaka raajaneetik prabhaav syaam aur uttaree malaaya tak phaila hua tha.”

ab itane se to yah samajh aata hai kee jayavarman jee ka tantr par bahut vishvaas tha. tantr mantr ka kendr ang pradesh aur koshee mithila ke mahishee mein tha to sahee. bauddh dharm ka prabhaav bhee isako khatm nahin kar paaya, ulate tantr bauddh dharm mein vajrayaan banakar ghus gaya . ab hiranyadaas ka sambandh ang se tha ya jayavarman ka yah tay karane ka jimma aap par chhodata hoon! mere lie to itana hee kaaphee hai kee koee bhaarateey mandir trast bihaar mein angakor vat kee pratikrti bana raha hai jise “taim ” patrika ne saraaha hai ! ab baat angakor vat mandir kee.

raashtr ke lie sammaan ke prateek is mandir ko varsh 1983 se kambodiya ke raashtradhvaj mein sthaan diya gaya hai. yah mandir meru parvat ka bhee prateek hai. isakee deevaaron par bhaarateey dharm granthon ke prasangon ka chitran hai. kaee sanaatanee prasangon ke saath asuron aur devataon ke beech amrt manthan ka drshy bhee dikhaaya gaya hai. vishv ke sabase lokapriy paryatan sthaanon mein se ek hone ke saath hee yah mandir yoonesko ke vishv dharohar sthalon mein se ek hai. yah mandir kambodiya ke angakor mein hai jisaka puraana naam yashodharaapur tha. yah vishnu mandir hai jabaki isake poorvavartee shaasakon ne praay: shiv mandiron ka nirmaan kiya tha. khamer shaastreey shailee se prabhaavit sthaapaty vaale is mandir ka nirmaan kaary samraat sooryavarman dviteey (1112-53 ee.) ke shaasanakaal mein shuroo hua tha. unake bhaanje evan uttaraadhikaaree dharaneendr varman ke shaasanakaal mein yah mandir ban kar taiyaar hua tha. mishr evan meksiko ke step piraamidon kee tarah yah seedhee par uthata gaya hai. isaka mool shikhar lagabhag 64 meetar ooncha hai. isake atirikt any sabhee aathon shikhar 54 meetar oonche hain. mandir saadhe teen kilomeetar lambee patthar kee deevaar se ghira hua hai, usake baahar 30 meetar khulee bhoomi aur phir 190 meetar chaudee khaee hai. vidvaanon ke anusaar yah chol vansh ke mandiron se milata-julata hai. dakshin pashchim mein sthit granthaalay ke saath hee is mandir mein teen veethiyaan hain, jinamen andar vaalee adhik oonchaee par hai. nirmaan ke kuchh hee varsh pashchaat champa raajy ne is nagar ko loota. usake uparaant raaja jayavarman-7 ne nagar ko kuchh kilomeetar uttar mein punassthaapit kiya. 14veen ya 15veen shataabdee mein theravaad bauddh logon ne ise apane niyantran mein le liya. mandir ke galiyaaron mein tatkaaleen samraat, bali-vaaman, svarg-narak, samudr manthan, dev-daanav yuddh, mahaabhaarat, harivansh puraan tatha raamaayan se sambaddh anek shilaachitr hain. yahaan ke shilaachitron mein roopaayit raam katha bahut sankshipt hai. in shilaachitron kee shrnkhala raavan vadh hetu devataon dvaara kee gaee aaraadhana se aarambh hotee hai. usake baad seeta svayanvar ka drshy hai. agale shilaachitr mein raam jee dhanush-baan lie svarn mrg ke peechhe daudate hue dikhaee padate hain. isake uparaant sugreev se raam jee kee maitree ka drshy hai. phir, baali aur sugreev ke dvandv yuddh ka chitran hua hai. shilaachitron mein ashok vaatika mein hanumaan kee upasthiti, raam-raavan yuddh, seeta kee agni pareeksha aur raam jee kee ayodhya vaapasee ke drshy hain.


aalekh : Mihir Jha

 

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